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I have been waiting for 5 weeks for a sunny weekend day to revisit Recoleta.
I spent an hour strolling around the mad wonderland of funeral art – stark pyramids, deco slabs of black granite, miniature Gothic cathedrals, and mournful marble everywhere. 
After a while it became weirdly cheerful.
Perhaps it was the American tourists who had two topics of conversation: “Where’s Evita’s tomb?”, and “Look at the poor kitties, do you think someone feeds them?”.
Somebody was definitely feeding them yesterday – every grubby cat I saw (not already sleeping in the sun) was filling up on kibble. 